Frequently Asked Questions

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Q: What areas does Dial One serve?

We serve these areas:

Aliso Viejo, Anaheim, Anaheim Hills, Balboa Island, Balboa Peninsula, Brea, Buena Park, Capistrano Beach, Cerritos, Corona Del Mar, Costa Mesa, Coto De Caza, Cowan Heights, Cypress, Dana Point, Diamond Bar, Dove Canyon, Downey, Emerald Bay, Foothill Ranch, Fountain Valley, Fullerton, Garden Grove, Hacienda Heights, Huntington Beach, Irvine, La Habra, La Habra Heights, La Mirada, La Palma, Ladera Ranch, Laguna Beach, Laguna Hills, Laguna Niguel, Laguna Woods, Lake Forest, Leisure World, Los Alamitos, Los Flores, Modjeska Canyon, Mission Viejo, Newport Beach, Newport Coast, Norwalk, Orange, Placentia, Rancho Santa Margarita, Rowland Heights, San Clemente, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Ana, Seal Beach, Seal Beach-Leisure World, Silverado Canyon, Stanton, Sunset Beach, Trabuco Canyon, Tustin, Villa Park, Westminster, Whittier, Yorba Linda.

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Q: Is a building permit necessary when replacing residential windows and doors?

This depends on which city you live in. Many cities in Orange County and the county of Orange require a building permit for any window or replacement work. Other cities do not. Some cities only require building permits for certain types of work. Our Dial One representative has a list with the latest requirements of each city and we will obtain the building permit on your behalf on all jobs where it is required. Beware of contractors who tell you a permit is not required or is "optional". When in doubt, call your local municipal building permit.

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Q: Will a building permit for window and door replacement trigger a property tax reassessment of my property?

No. A residential window and door replacement project is considered a maintenance type item and will not result in a reassessment of your home.

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Q: Is homeowners association (HOA) approval required for a typical window and door replacement project?

If you live in an HOA, you should check with your specific HOA because requirements vary. In some cases where the city requires a building permit, they will require written HOA approval before issuing a building permit.

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Q: How does Dial One handle building permits?

We have a full time permit technician on staff who works with the city building departments on an on-going basis. We will apprise you of your city's specific requirements and proceed accordingly, including doing plot plans, floor plan drawings and obtaining the building permit for your job. We will also make sure your job complies with all requirements of the building code and we will coordinate all required inspections. The actual cost of the building permit will be added to the cost of your job.

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Q: What is "low e" glass and how does it work?

"Low E" glass, or low emmissivity glass, is a generic term for glass that has special coatings of microscopic metal particles such as silver and tin oxides. The metallic coatings create a reflective surface that reflects certain ranges of light back toward their original source. Low E glasses are designed to be "spectrally selective" in that they reflect various wavelengths of light, such as ultraviolet light and infrared light, while allowing other wavelengths, such as visible light, to pass through. Ultraviolet light is responsible for fading furniture, upholstery, carpets, drapes, etc. Some Low E glasses reflect 80 -95% of harmful ultraviolet light back to the outside of the building greatly reducing damage to interior items. Infrared light is heat, whether from the sun or internally generated by your furnace. Many Low E glasses will keep heat in during the cooler winter months and reduce heat gain from the sun during warmer months. Renewal by Andersen products featuring Smart Sun glass feature the very best in Low E glass technology. Smart Sun glass features numerous layers of silver which are deposited on the internal surface of an insulated glass unit so that the coatings do not scratch or rub off.

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Q: Can't I just tint my windows and improve their energy efficiency?

Applying aftermarket tinted films to single glazed windows can reduce ultraviolet light, infrared light and visible light transmission through the glass. This may or may not be desirable. The films used for window tinting are plastic and scratch easily resulting in vision obstruction over time. They also tend to peel away and blister over time. Applying tint films to insulated glass should never be done. When the film is applied to the interior piece of glass it causes heat to build up in the airspace between the panes of glass causing the air to expand and putting pressure on the perimeter seal which often results in the seal failure and moisture entering the insulated glass area. All manufacturers of insulated glass exclude applying aftermarket tint films from warranty coverage on their insulated glass units.

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Q: What is insulated glass and is all insulated glass made the same way?

Essentially, insulated glass (IG) is two or more pieces of glass separated by some sort of spacer around the perimeter and then sealed so that the airspace between the panes of glass is isolated from the exterior atmosphere. Air, trapped in small pockets, can provide good insulation against energy transmission. Most IG units have dry air between the panes because dry air is a better insulator than moist air. This is why you will see moisture and fogging inside insulated glass when the seal fails. Exterior water vapor or humidity is pulled into the dry airspace when even the smallest leak occurs in the IG unit's perimeter seal.

There are many ways to make insulated glass, some much better than others. The older methods used an aluminum spacer and some sort of seal, usually polysulfide, to seal around the perimeter. Since aluminum is a very good conductor of energy and expands and contracts at a fairly high rate, it is a poor choice for making IG units. Other methods involve using butyl, rubber, polysulfide and siliconized foam materials. Renewal by Andersen IG units use a non-corrosive stainless steel spacer that is a poor conductor combined with a butyl primary seal that eliminates any contact between the glass and spacer. Finally, a structural silicone seal provides a secondary perimeter seal. This method, while being a more expensive way to build IG units, consistently outperforms other methods for strength, durability and longevity.

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Q: Do some insulated glass units have gas inside them?

Yes. To enhance the insulating efficiency of insulated glass, many manufacturers insert gas into the airspace. Argon gas is the most common gas used. Argon is clear, odorless, non-toxic and inert. It is heavier and more dense than atmospheric air which results in energy not passing through it as readily as ordinary air. This can further enhance the performance of insulated glass, especially with regards to lowering the "U" value. Renewal by Andersen glass uses a special blend of argon and other gases to provide stability that argon alone does not have. Additionally, to prevent gas leakage from the insulated glass unit, a dual seal system like that used to make Renewal by Andersen insulated glass is superior to other single seal systems.

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Q: Are there any special considerations for bedroom windows?

Yes. According to the Uniform Building Code (UBC) all bedrooms (or "sleeping rooms") must have at least one window or door opening that leads directly to the exterior of the home that meets four requirements. If there is not door in the bedroom leading to the exterior, then at least one window in the room must meet all of the following four requirements:

1. The minimum opening width must be at least 20" wide;
2. The minimum opening height must be at least 24" high;
3. The total square footage of the opening must be at least 5.7 sq. ft. (821 sq. in.);
4. The sill height of the opening must be no greater than 44" above the finished floor.

Additionally, the opening must be able to be created without the use of tools or "special knowledge".

These requirements can limit the types of window used in bedrooms. In many cases, existing sliding windows may not provide a wide enough opening to meet the code. In some cases, double hung windows may not be tall enough to allow a high enough opening to meet the code. in some cases, casement windows may provide a solution, especially with the use of a "wide open" egress hinge.

Some older homes may have windows that met the building code when the home was built but which do not meet the current building code. With this in mind, some cities will allow replacement windows in bedrooms to not meet the current building code while other cities insist that any window replacements meet the current code. Our Dial One sales representative has up to date information on specific city requirements.

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Q: What is tempered glass and when it is required?

Tempered glass is glass that has been heated in an oven to high temperatures and then cooled or "quenched" quickly. The process results in glass that is 4-5 times stronger than normal annealed glass. Tempered glass is less likely to break than non-tempered glass and will break into tiny glass cubes if broken. This makes tempered glass an approved "safety glass" for situations that are considered "hazardous safety glazing areas" by the Uniform Building Code. Once tempered, glass cannot be cut to size and modified. Therefore, glass must be cut to the desired finish size first and then tempered.

The areas considered to be hazardous safety glazing areas requiring tempered glass are:

1. Glass in any door;
2. Glass in any kind of shower, bathtub area, hot tub, steam room, sauna or whirlpool area where the bottom edge of the glass is less than 60 inches above a standing surface and drain outlet;
3. Glass in fixed or operable panels adjacent to a door where the nearest exposed edge of the glazing is within a 24" arc of either vertical edge of the door in a closed position and where the bottom edge of the glazing is less than 60" above a walking surface:
4. Glass in fixed or operable panels that meets all of the following conditions:
   • Bottom edge is less than 18" above floor
   • Top edge is greater than 36" above floor
   • Total area of glass is greater than 9 sq. ft. (1296 sq.in.)
   • One or more walking surfaces within 36" horizontally of the glazing
5. Glass in walls used as a barrier for indoor or outdoor swimming pools or spas when both of the following exist:
   • The bottom edge of the glazing is less than 60" above a pool side of the glazing
   • The glazing is within 5 feet of a swimming pool or spa deck area;
6. Glass in walls enclosing stairway landings or within 5 feet of the bottom and top of stairways where the bottom edge of the glass is less than 60" above a walking surface

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Q: How important is proper window installation?

Ultimately, the best window in the world won't do you a bit of good if the installation is flawed. So, once you decide on a particular window, make sure the installers know their business! Most companies talk primarily about the product. Very little time, if any, is spent discussing the type of installation and the skills of the installers. Both of these areas are extremely important if you hope to get a properly performing product that adds to the exterior and interior appearance of your home. Unfortunately, that tends to be the exception rather than the rule. An article appearing in an issue of Window & Door magazine cites that eight to nine out of ten windows are improperly installed. The process of substituting all or most of your old windows with new replacement windows is one that few homeowners go through more than once in their lifetimes. As a result, most people don't know what they don't know, especially as it relates to installation details. It pays to do your homework. Ask questions about how your windows will be finished and don't accept generalities for answers. Proper installation is critically important with windows and doors. Poorly installed windows and doors won't perform effectively, or last as long as they should, no matter how well they're built. Ignoring the qualifications of the actual window installer is a common mistake that homeowners make when purchasing new windows. New windows offer the perfect opportunity to improve a home's aesthetics and energy efficiency, but too often this chance slips away with inadequate installation.

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Q: Will new windows reduce the amount of noise in my home caused by exterior sources?

Double-pane windows have up to one inch of air between the two panes of glass. Therefore, this type of window reduces noise pollution. According to the housing publication Better Homes and Gardens (bhg.com), thicker glass and more air between panes equals better noise reduction. Airspaces up to about 5/8" thick have been proven in testing to be the most efficient and effective in reducing the transfer of energy, including noise.

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Q: What factors determine the price of new windows?

The product and all of the available options, the method of installation, and the quality of installation are all determining factors included in the price of windows. Big differences in the types of warranties and service policies will also have a significant impact. In addition, the style of the windows being removed can vary the cost of window replacement significantly. The age and style of your home also will influence the price. Another important cost factor is the types of windows you want for your home. Non-operating picture windows are less expensive than operable double hung or sliding styles. Casements usually cost more than double hung or sliding windows. The size of the new windows and the level of insulating glass chosen also play a large part in determining cost. Pre-made big-box-store windows are typically less expensive than custom-made products, although in the long run, with the necessary interior and exterior cosmetic work required to make pre-made windows "fit" a home, it's highly doubtful that pre-made windows are truly less expensive than custom sized windows. Then there are the costs to the company that sells and installs the windows. The costs of doing business and staying profitable will always exist. You should expect to pay a fair price so these companies can do a professional job installing your windows without cutting corners. Most homeowners don-t mind paying more than originally expected for a home improvement project, as long as they know the reasons for the higher costs. However, by paying more, expectations will be higher. You should expect high quality products, installation, and service. The phrases "cheap" or "lowest price" should not be important when you're making a large investment for your home. You will get what you pay for -- in terms of product quality, the appropriate options and glass you should have, the quality of work in installing the windows, and even the quality of the company with which you're doing business. Do your homework up front and make an informed choice.

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Q: How much should I pay for replacement windows?

This is one of the most commonly asked questions by homeowners. In comparing price, it is critical for you to understand what you are getting for the money you will be investing. Be sure that you are making an "apples-to-apples" comparison. Finally, make sure that you get everything that was promised in writing. If it is not in writing, it's not going to happen, no matter what the nice salesperson said. If a price sounds too good to be true, it probably is, and some critical ingredients will be missing. For a quality window, properly installed by a good company with a solid reputation for repeat customers and referrals, the pricing range is $700 - $1,500 per window for replacements placed inside existing (and structurally intact) window frames. Double-glazed windows with Low-e glass, or those filled with argon gas, increase energy savings, but bump the cost to the higher end of the scale. New replacement windows ranging in the $200-$600 range will leave you with what many in the industry call "rental windows". A "rental window" means that you are simply putting a bandage on your home, and you will be replacing your window again in the near future. There are many reasons for this, ranging from being an inferior product to a poor or severely lacking window installation done by an uninsured subcontractor. You also need to look for pitfalls in the warranty when a window is priced this low. Extensive dry rot or other damage around existing windows may require repairs before new windows can be installed. Depending on the type of repairs needed, this will add to the cost of your new windows. Be sure the estimate includes disposing of the old windows. So, why the diversity in price? While some companies are only in the business to engage in a "one-shot" transaction, the more reputable companies are in business to build relationships and make a small profit. These companies build their business slowly through word of mouth and an impeccable reputation for integrity, honesty and service. This type of window company has clients who know that at any given moment they can call on their company where someone will answer to immediately help solve any problems they may have.

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Q: Can I get the price for new windows over the phone or in a showroom?

There are companies that encourage you to call them with your measurements ready and they will give you prices over the phone. This is like calling a doctor and asking him to diagnose an illness over the phone.This results in guess work, at best, and mis-information that can lead to an unfortunate experience for all involved. Never trust a price from anyone who will give it to you without first seeing your project. How can they even give you a meaningful range without discussing your needs and reviewing the details of the installation? A number of companies will throw out a low price, just so you will schedule an appointment with them at your home. Once these contractors get to your home, the price will surprisingly increase because of "issues" they were unaware of when they gave you the price. Remember, there are a number of components that make up the final price. Don't decide on which companies you want to come to your home to give you quotes based solely on off-the-cuff ballpark prices given to you over the phone. You need to invite companies into your home based upon reputation, not prices. You need to understand what you are getting for the money you are spending. You may eventually decide to invest in a lower quality product or a company providing lesser service, but do this based upon a thorough understanding of all the facts.

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Q: How long should it take for a contractor to give me an estimate?

Depending on the size of the project, developing an estimate probably only takes about 15-30 minutes. However, what does an estimate tell you about the company and the way it interacts with its customers? What does an estimate tell you about product selection and the options you have? What does an estimate tell you about the way the inside and outside of the window will be finished? What does an estimate tell you about the options you have for finishing the interior and exterior of the windows? What does an estimate tell you about the company's record of repeat and referral business? What does an estimate tell you about the insurance coverage a company may or may not have? What does the estimate tell you about who will be doing the work, the company or a subcontractor? What does the estimate tell you about the terms and conditions of the warranty? As you can see, there is a lot of information you need to have and understand. It is your hard earned money you're going to be investing. You don't invest in new windows and doors everyday. In most cases, consumers don't know what they don't know. Take all the time you need to get your questions answered to your satisfaction and ask for them to be confirmed in writing. Any reputable company will have no problem putting the details in writing that they tell you verbally. After the job is done is too late to deal with issues such as, "I thought it was going to look like…" or "I thought I was getting…" It is your home and your money, make sure you invest wisely. Fifteen minutes is not enough time for you to assess whether or not you are getting everything you need. Conversely, it shouldn't take more than an hour unless you have a significant number of questions. It's okay if you do have questions, because you should.

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Q: How many estimates should I get before buying windows?

Never get more than three estimates. If you attempt to evaluate any more than that, you will only be confused when you try to compare them. The most important thing to do is to get pricing from companies who you trust, based upon recommendations and reputation. Also, make sure that you are making an "apples-to-apples" comparison of quotes covering your needs and wants. Many factors, such as product quality, insurances, installation expertise, and warranties, just to name a few, can have a significant impact on the price. Remember, an educated consumer knows that "you get what you pay for". Make sure that you clearly understand what you are getting and that all commitments are transferred into writing. You may only need one quote if the company comes highly recommended and has a reputation for using quality products, performing quality work, and has a proven track record of commitment to its customers.

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Q: Should I have a written contract when buying new windows and doors?

A well-written contract is essential to preventing costly mistakes or additions to the scope of your project. It is also a critical step in making certain you will be getting everything you asked for. Be sure the contract covers everything you have talked about with your contractor. Get everything in writing including, the warranties (always, always, always get an official copy of this), when the windows and/or doors will be installed, the measurements of the windows and doors, the quantity and style of window and doors, and what will be done with your old windows and doors. Verify in writing that the installation will be done by company employees or subcontractors. Verify all insurances. Pay careful attention to how unexpected circumstances, such as dry rot, will be handled and priced. You cannot be too thorough in getting everything in writing and a good contractor or salesperson will encourage you to be as specific as possible. You should always feel that you and your contractor are in total agreement. This will help eliminate miscommunication and costly errors. This is a very important "secret" to a successful and enjoyable remodeling experience. Choose someone who will listen to you. Be sure you are getting the total job, and that there are no hidden charges, like delivery or clean up. Even worse than hidden charges are things that were ignored to reduce the price. Even though it costs you a little more money to do the job right initially, you will be much better off in the long run. Make sure that everything that was promised to you is clearly spelled out on the contract or a spec sheet linked to the contract.

Additionally, there are certain clauses and language that are required to be included in any home improvement contract by California law including notices that contractors are required to be licensed and regulated by the State Contractors License Board and information on protecting yourself against a Mechanics Lien being placed on your property. A competent contractor will have a contract that includes all of the required language in a clear and concise format.

Under no circumstances should you accept a proposal written on the back of a business card or a contract that does not spell out in detail the exact products and specifications of the job as well as the agreed upon payment schedule. In no instance should you rely upon verbal committments and promises. Always get it in writing!

Remember: "the palest ink is better than the best memory".

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Q: Are all window companies the same?

No. Like most businesses, there is a wide range of product offerings and a wide spectrum of companies providing varying levels of service and quality. Unfortunately, there are more than a few companies who take advantage of uninformed homeowners. Remember, these people deal in their industry everyday. Most homeowners have never even made a major contracting investment before, let alone one focused on windows and doors. It is important for you to do your homework. A few hours spent upfront can save you days of frustration and considerable expense on the back end. If you know someone who has had similar work done recently, you may want to ask them about their experience and whether or not the experience met or exceeded their expectations.

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Q: How important is it for a contractor to have insurance?

No. Like most businesses, there is a wide range of product offerings and a wide spectrum of companies providing varying levels of service and quality. Unfortunately, there are more than a few companies who take advantage of uninformed homeowners. Remember, these people deal in their industry everyday. Most homeowners have never even made a major contracting investment before, let alone one focused on windows and doors. It is important for you to do your homework. A few hours spent upfront can save you days of frustration and considerable expense on the back end. If you know someone who has had similar work done recently, you may want to ask them about their experience and whether or not the experience met or exceeded their expectations.

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Q: Does a contractor need liability insurance?

Liability insurance protects you from damage to your home or property caused by contractor negligence or ignorance. For example, if one of the persons who is working on your home drops a lighted cigarette and your home catches on fire, liability insurance will cover the cost of repair, assuming the contractor has enough insurance in place. For most residential homes, a minimum of one million dollar liability policy shpuld be in force at all times. Liability insurance will also cover things like structural damage or failures that occur because of corner-cutting to save money. Make sure the liability insurance coverage includes work in orogress plus completed operations.

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Q: Must a contractor's employees have Worker's Compensation?

Worker's Compensation insurance protects you if someone is injured on your property while working on your home. Every person working on your home must be either an independent contractor or an employee, who by law, must be covered by a Worker's Compensation policy. If the person is not an employee, they are by definition, "an independent contractor" who must have their own individual Liability policy. If there are five non-employee people on your property, they must each have their own Liability policy. If there are employees of one of the companies working on your home, they must be covered under a Worker's Compensation policy. You need to be sure that everyone on your property is individually covered by one of these policies. The construction industry is known for having people who work "under the table", so they pay no taxes and have no insurance coverage. The problem is that if one of these uninsured people gets hurt on your property, they can sue you, the homeowner, for their pain and suffering. With Worker's Compensation, they can't sue because they get compensated by insurance.

A "game" that some window and door coompanies play is that they have a valid Worker's Compensation policy in effect and they cover their office staff but they use sub-contractors to do the installation. The sub-contractor(s) and his employees are not covered by the window and door company's Worker's Compensation policy so if they are injured in the course of working on your home, you can be liable for the cost of remedying their injuries. If your contractor uses subcontractors, you should insist on a copy of each subcontractors' Worker's Compensation insurance certificate.

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Q: Will my homeowner's insurance policy protect me while a contractor is working on my property?

In most cases, the answer is no. Most homeowner's policies actually exclude claims for damages and personal injury claims while work is being done on your home. Why? Because your insurance company can't assess the competency and work practices of every person who might be working on your home. Since they can't assess it, they exclude that coverage from the policy. It is your job to assess the contractor and part of that assessment is that they have proper insurance coverage in place to protect you. Ask to see copies of all insurance policies and don't be afraid to call the insurance company to see if those policies are still valid. Additionally, you may want to get a documentation letter from the company you are using that verifies that Liability and Workman's Compensation insurance is in place for every person, not just every employee who will be stepping foot on your property. Yes, it may be a pain to go through this effort, but you might regret it later if you don't. Remember, the probability is low, but the risk can be high. It's up to you to protect yourself.

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Q: Is it better to have employee installers or subcontractors working on my home?

Employee installers are much better to have working on your home. A window and door installer who is an employee of a company generally ensures that the window is installed properly and is also trained to make any necessary adjustments to the home, such as replacing rotted wood, seeking out termite and water damage, and insulating the walls before installing brand new windows. Additionally, an employee installer generally will not leave an installation until the window is properly sealed on both the interior and exterior. A window installer takes pride in his work because he is not only representing a company but is also employed by that company. Since most company employees are paid by the hour, they tend to be more concerned about doing the right job for the customer. Conversely, most subcontractors tend to be paid by the unit installed, which increases the tendency for corners to be cut or for concealed problems, such as rot, from being simply covered over. While there are good subcontractors out there, they need to be checked out thoroughly. When improving your home, a good goal is to reduce the risk of a bad installation. A window and door installer who is an employee of a company is a safer bet to insulate yourself from problems.

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Q: What should I look for in a replacement window and door warranty?

A warranty is only as good as the company that stands behind it! Most companies offer good warranties and stand behind them. When you are investing thousands of dollars in your home, you want to make sure you choose the right product and be sure you have a warranty to back up that choice. Don’t make the mistake of assuming that a “Lifetime” warranty means that everything from product through installation is covered forever. During the sales process, many companies use the warranty as a sales tool by creating the impression that the warranty they offer covers everything that might happen. Then, if there is a problem later, they use the fine print included in the warranty to shield themselves from being responsive to legitimate claims from the people who placed their trust in them. Just be sure that you thoroughly understand what is being warranted and what is not. Understand the terms of the warranty (what is covered and for how long) and what happens if you have a claim. Different products may be covered for different lengths of time. Be sure there are no hidden service changes. It’s essential to understand the warranty on your new window and doors before you buy, not after, because by then, it will be too late. It pays to be a cautious consumer. If something important to you is not clear and understandable to you, ask the company to clarify it in writing on your contract or in some written correspondence from the company. If problems develop over time, it’s too late to say “I was told that…”. It doesn’t matter what you were told, it only matters what the warranty states.

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Q: What are the most critical details to consider during installation?

You should make sure the exterior and the interior of your home are protected in some way to prevent damage. Once your old window is removed, the opening should be inspected and any damaged materials or rotted wood should be replaced. Make sure that the installer does not simply cover up any problems. When it comes to windows and doors, it’s critical to keep the unit level, plumb and square. This means that the window or door must be uniform horizontally, vertically, and diagonally within the opening. Shims are crucial to the performance of the window or door installation. Shimming around a window or door helps to hold it uniformly in the opening, plumb, level, and square. Once the window or door is fastened and flashed, the installer will insulate the interior between the window or door and the old opening with fiberglass or a bead of low-expansion polyurethane foam sealant. Fiberglass insulation helps prevent bowing or warping of windows and doors. Custom finish work, including proper caulking, is completed on both the interior and exterior. A wide variety of options are available to meet the needs of the customer. This is one area that is typically taken for granted, and where the quality of the finished product can vary greatly. Be clear on the finish details. The job site, including the new windows and doors, should be thoroughly cleaned both inside and outside. The old windows, doors, and miscellaneous materials should be removed. You should make a final review with the installer to assure that everything that was agreed upon is done to your satisfaction.

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Q: Will I lose some visible glass area when my new windows are installed?

Typically, the answer is yes. There are two reasons for this. First, most windows that were installed when the home was built were made with minimum framing materials and lots of glass, in order to cut costs. That is one reason why their performance has deteriorated over time. Most modern replacements windows, which are structurally superior, have wider sashes and frames. Secondly, many replacement windows are installed inside the existing window opening after the old window sashes are removed. This is especially true of older wood windows. It is possible to replace the entire wood window, including both the frame and the sash especially if there is dry rot or termite damage. However, this is typically more expensive, because it increases the amount of interior and exterior finish work that needs to be performed. In general, old aluminum and steel frames may be left in place and the new replacement window made to fit within the old frame or they may be completely removed. When the original frame is removed, critical attention needs to be paid to the exterior flashing and finish to ensure an aesthetically pleasing weather-resistant barrier.

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Q: How important is the type of caulking used to install my windows?

Typically, the answer is yes. There are two reasons for this. First, most windows that were installed when the home was built were made While most of us are very selective when it comes to choosing paint or wallpaper, few give the same thought to the caulk that is used to install their windows and doors. When properly applied, caulking helps protect your entire home from moisture damage, while increasing its energy efficiency. Latex or vinyl caulks are not recommended. Most window installers use acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulking. The advantage of acrylic caulk is that it is cheaper and easier to apply. However, acrylic caulk is prone to begin shrinking and cracking after a period of time. When the cracks begin to appear, you have to caulk again or risk having water enter where it shouldn’t. Even the best acrylic caulk will begin to show signs of drying and cracking after a few years. Silicone caulk, sometimes called siliconized rubber caulk, retains a flexible, rubber-like feel for many, many years. It doesn’t dry or crack, and if properly applied in the first place, it maintains an air tight, waterproof seal for a very long time. Even though it is considerably more expensive and more difficult to work with, it is the caulking of choice for quality installers looking to provide a long lasting seal. Ask potential contractors about the type of caulking that will be used. Both acrylic and silicone caulking look similar. However, after a few years, the performance difference will become apparent, leading to repair or re-application. There is also a tendency for poor quality installers to overuse caulking to cut corners or cover up a variety of installation defects. For example, caulking a gap that is too wide will not only look bad, but it also increases the probability that the caulk will shrink and crack over time.

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Q: How do you measure the energy efficiency of a window or a door?

There are a number of interactive factors which all work together to determine the energy efficiency of a window or door. R-value and U-factor are the two common measures used to rate how well a specific material or system resists or conducts heat flow. R-value measures the resistance to heat flow. In windows and doors, however, R-value can be misleading, since it applies only to specific parts, such as the frame or center of glass. U-factor measures the ability of a material or system to conduct the flow of heat. The lower the number, the better its insulating ability. U-factors for windows and doors most often refer to the insulating quality of the entire system (the glass, frame, and spacer combined). Therefore, it is a more useful measure of energy efficiency. For glass, companies often throw out center-of-glass measurements, which overstate the performance of glass as installed in a specific window unit. They are not indicative of glass or the window performance as a whole. This center-of-glass value drops off as you move towards the edge of the glass. The second critical measurement is the Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC), which measures a window’s ability to reduce heat gain by blocking the sun’s heat-producing rays. A high coefficient will allow more sunlight, and heat, into the house. A low coefficient will block more sunlight to reduce summer heat gain. The third way a window can lose energy is through air leakage. The air infiltration rate for a window is measured in cubic-feet-per-minute (cfm) and refers to air leakage that occurs through cracks in the window assembly. The lower the number, the less air will pass through. The final influencing factor is installation. Poorly or improperly installed windows can be a major energy consumer. Improper installation can cause air to leak around the window frame. Poorly caulked windows can also be an energy waster. If the installer does not understand the design characteristics of an individual window, he can influence the contact and compression of the weather stripping, resulting in poor performance.

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Q: What is a U-value?

U-value (or U-factor) is the measure of the window’s ability to conduct heat-in other words, the amount of heat transmitted through the window. The lower a window's U-value, the better the window is at insulating your home. Generally, heat will flow from the inside towards the outside during the winter. In the summer, it will flow from the outside to the inside. Most manufacturers have run NFRC (National Fenestration Rating Council) thermal performance tests on assembled units, which are a much better indicator of the unit’s overall performance, compared to glass or window frame values alone.

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Q: What are NFRC window performance ratings?

When you compare energy efficient windows, the first thing to consider is the window's U-value. U-values (Btu/hr-ft2-oF) are a measure of thermal conductivity. When some window manufacturers tell you the R-values of their windows, they usually give the center-of-glass value, which is considerably higher than the whole window rating. Whole window ratings, introduced in 1989 by the National Fenestration Ratings Council (NFRC), reflect the insulating value of the glass, the sash (where applicable), and the frame.

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Q: What is self-cleaning or low maintenance glass?

While there is no such thing as truly self-cleaning glass, there are surface treatments applied to the outside of the glass that can increase the time span between glass cleanings. This is made possible by a durable, transparent coating of titanium dioxide (TiO2) applied during the manufacturing process. The transparent coating is applied to hot glass during the forming process to form a strong, long-lasting bond, which makes the coating an integral part of the outer glass surface. This coating has photocatalytic properties that react chemically with the sun’s ultraviolet rays, causing dirt and other organic materials that are on the glass surface to slowly decompose and loosen. It works even on a cloudy day because a significant amount of ultraviolet radiation passes through cloud cover. There is even enough reflection radiation in shaded areas for this process to work nonstop throughout the day in all areas. The hydrophilic qualities of glass cause water droplets to spread out, or sheet, across the surface of the glass. When rain or a light spray of water hits the window, the water carries away the loosened dirt. This sheeting action also helps the window dry quickly with minimal spotting or streaking. Some companies even treat the surface with a thin layer of silicon dioxide which makes the surface exceptionally smooth, even more hydrophilic than normal hydrophilic glass. This super smooth surface allows water to disperse evenly or sheet off and evaporate quickly, greatly reducing water spotting. All Renewal by Andersen Series 1 windows feature this TiO2 coating on the exterior glass surface.

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Q: What makes one window stronger than another?

The material used, profile design and methods of assembly determine the strength of a window. Just as beams or roof trusses are designed for specific mechanical loads, so, too, are window shapes. If you are considering vinyl replacement windows, you may also want to closely consider the qualities of the window frames and sashes. There are a wide variety of vinyl extrusion shapes used with varying strength and thicknesses. Since vinyl is not considered to be a structural material and it expands and contracts about 3/8" per 10' length, many vinyl windows can bow and twist creating problems with glass sagging, seal failure and air and water leakage over time.

Metal frames made from steel and aluminum may be quite strong depending upon their thickness and design, but their poor thermal insulating properties make them a poor choice for energy efficient windows and doors.

The Fibrex material used in Renewal by Andersen windows has many wood-like properties when it comes to structural strength and is twice as strong as a comparable vinyl component. Additionally, it will not expand and contract like vinyl making it an excellent window framing material.

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Q: What are the pros and cons of vinyl replacement windows?

Vinyl is widely used for residential window applications. Compared to older vinyl compounds, many of today's vinyl compounds have improved weatherability, are easy to clean, and are virtually maintenance free. The low thermal conductivity of vinyl also makes it a good material for minimizing energy loss through the framing materials. By itself, vinyl tends not to be as strong as some other materials, and screws in vinyl tend to loosen under stress. However, vinyl shapes can be designed with multi-hollow cavities for stiffness and reinforced with aluminum in major structural areas. The aluminum reinforcement adds cost and can compromise the thermal insulating properties of the window. Many cheaper vinyl windows use little or no reinforcing making their strength and structural durability questionable. Vinyl window frames offer many advantages because they require little maintenance and are easily manufactured into almost any shape. Vinyl frames do not need to be painted because the color is uniform throughout. Vinyl frames cannot be successfully made in dark colors due to heat absorption and distortion. Vinyl compounds depend on additives such as titanium dioxide to reduce the effects of ultraviolet degradation which can cause vinyl to yellow and become brittle over time. Dark colors also do not weather well and will fade. Vinyl does not swell, shrink, peel, or corrode but it does expand and contract more than most other window framing materials. Because of the nature of the material used, vinyl window frames also have a few disadvantages. For example, they are not inherently strong or rigid. The flexible qualities of vinyl also limit the size of the frame and the weight of the glass used in it. Vinyl window frames can sometimes soften, warp, twist, and bow if heat build-up becomes excessive. Better quality vinyl frames are reinforced with metal. Dark colored vinyl window frames are more susceptible to heat absorption and may fade over time. Vinyl windows tend to have a shiny plastic look.

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Q: What are the pros and cons of fiberglass windows?

Wood is one of the most beautiful and aesthetic surfaces for windows, and that is why these windows are so popular. When left in the elements, however, wood will degrade and begin to rot. Quality wood replacement windows can also be expensive, especially with the required upkeep. Wood is a good insulator. Wood frames also expand and contract less than most other materials, but require more maintenance and are susceptible to moisture damage. Wood components treated with a preservative or clad with metal or vinyl offer the benefits of low maintenance and high insulating value. Wood window frames are still the choice of most homeowners and most major window manufacturers. Since they are easy to paint, wooden window frames also allow the consumer to change the color of the window. Wooden window frames, however, require considerable maintenance, including periodic painting. If they are not protected from moisture, they can stick, crack, and warp. As the cost of wood increases, manufacturers have begun using veneers over lower grade wood cores. While these are not solid wood, the wood fiber determines the performance of the frames.

Vinyl-clad and aluminum-clad wood frames are wood frames covered on the exterior with either vinyl or aluminum. This allows the homeowner to have the traditional look of the wood frame indoors, while avoiding periodic painting outdoors. These window frames, however, may rot if the cladding leaks and moisture reaches the wooden frame. Aluminum clad wood windows may not perform well in close proximity to the ocean and salt air. The painted finish can oxidize, fade and peel over time.

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Q: What are the pros and cons of wood windows?

Fiberglass window frames are a relatively new type of frame made of fiberglass composite material. Some of these window frames are hollow; others are filled with fiberglass insulation. Most are pre-finished with a white or brown polyurethane coating. These window frames are manufactured using a process called "pultrusion." Glass matting and continuous glass strands are pulled through a tub filled with resin. The window frames are then formed in a preformer and pulled into a heated die. A chemical reaction hardens the material. Because of this process, there are some limits to design flexibility with fiberglass. Fiberglass is an excellent insulating material. In addition, fiberglass window frames do not warp, shrink, swell, rot, or corrode. They do not soften and degrade under the thermal conditions that most windows are exposed to. Fiberglass window frames are also relatively strong and durable, and can hold a large expanse of glass. On the downside, because they have to be painted, fiberglass windows are not nearly as maintenance free as vinyl and other composite windows. In addition, fiberglass windows have not been available for that long, so they do not have the track record that other materials have. They also tend to be more expensive than other framing materials for the same level of quality and performance.

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Q: How does low-emissivity (Low-E) glass affect exterior condensation?

Low-E glass reduces heat conducted through the glass from the warm interior of the home to the outside glass surface. Heat conduction can be reduced by as much as 70 percent with an efficient Low-E coated glass. This reflected heat energy reduces the outside glass temperature and can result in condensation on the glass. Exterior condensation is actually an indication that the insulating glass in the window is performing as it should. Low-emissivity glass is designed to reduce heat conduction through the glass unit, thus holding heat in your home on cold days. With this improved performance, the surface temperature of the exterior glass remains cool and the moist air in contact with that cold outer glass turns into condensation. This is not a fault of the insulating glass—it actually indicates how well the Low-E glass is working. Exterior condensation on windows actually means that the windows are doing their jobs properly. The more energy-efficient your windows are, such as those with Low-E glass, the more likely they are to experience condensation on some portions of the window’s exterior. In fact, under the right combination of humidity, temperature and air flow across the inside and outside surfaces of the window, condensation could form on much of the window’s exterior. On less efficient windows, such as those without Low-E glass, the outside surface temperature is a few degrees warmer because of the energy flow through the glass. This will result in a surface temperature above the dew point. This will decrease the likelihood of condensation on the exterior, but you are losing warmth to the exterior and consuming more energy in the process.

This situation is especially prevalent in the spring and fall where daytime temperatures may be in the 70s and nighttime temperatures fall into the 40s and 50s. Since colder air cannot hold as much moisture or humidity as warm air, as the temperature drops, the relative humidity increases lowering the dew point, the temperature at which water vapor condenses on cold surfaces such as metal or glass.

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Q: Can the size of my window or door opening be changed?

In most cases, the answer is yes.

Lowering the sill height of a window may require that electrical wiring and/or plumbing need to be moved and rerouted.

Lowering the sill height of a window to the floor to convert the opening to a door is often desireable. This may require that electrical wiring and/or plumbing may need to be moved and rerouted. Also, the building code requires all exterior doors to have a light fixture on the outside controlled by an interior switch. So an exterior light box will need to be added.

Raising the top of an opening height will require the existing header (a horizontal beam that supports the weight of the wall above the opening) to be moved. This requires opening the wall from the interior and/or exterior so that the framing can be exposed and modified.

Widening an opening will require the existing header (a horizontal beam that supports the weight of the wall above the opening) to be removed and replaced with a wider and usually taller header. This requires opening the wall from the interior and/or exterior so that the framing can be exposed and modified. A general rule of thumb is that the header should be 1" high for every 1 foot of width that the opening is. For example, a 6' wide opening will usually require a 4x6 header while a 10' wide opening will usually require a 4x10 header (on a wall with 2x4 framing). Some city building departments may require structural calculations and engineering to substantiate that the proposed new header is sufficient to carry the load of the new opening.

Creating a new opening has the same considerations as the items discussed above.

Anytime an existing wall section is being removed, considerations regarding cutting into a sheer wall may come into play. A sheer wall is a wall that has diagonal bracing or reinforcing to resist lateral movement, particularly during seismic activity.

Reducing the width or height of an existing opening usually does not have any structural implications. In all cases, where existing window or door openings are being modified, consideration must be given to exterior waterproofing when tying in to existing exterior wall surfaces such as stucco, siding, etc.

Your Dial One design consultant can discuss the particular considerations involved in your project. And, Dial One can handle all of the work involved including engineering, electrical, plumbing, stucco, drywall, siding, etc.

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Q: Are there any special requirements if I replace my pre-1978 windows and doors?

Yes, there could be. There is the possibility that any home built before 1978 could contain lead paint.

Common renovation activities like sanding, cutting, and demolition can create hazardous lead dust and chips by disturbing lead-based paint, which can be harmful to adults and children.

To protect against this risk, on April 22, 2008, the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) issued a rule requiring the use of lead-safe practices and other actions aimed at preventing lead poisoning. Under the rule, beginning on April 22, 2010, contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 must be certified and must follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination.

Under the rule, child-occupied facilities are defined as residential, public or commercial buildings where children under age six are present on a regular basis. The requirements apply to renovation, repair or painting activities. The rule does not apply to minor maintenance or repair activities where less than six square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed in a room or where less then 20 square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed on the exterior. Window and door replacement is not considered by the EPA as minor maintenance or repair.

DIAL ONE is an EPA certified renovator (EPA #NAT-19475-1) and has EPA certified renovators that are trained to employ the proper lead safe work practces should your job require them. Our sales representatives can provide additional information as well as the EPA pamphlet: Renovate Right - Important lead hazard information for families, child care providers and schools.